Anchoring
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Make sure that you have an anchor and line, suitable in size and capable of holding the yacht you are sailing on. The ability to anchor your boat is not only a safety measure, but it provides the opportunity to stop for lunch in a quiet estuary without going ashore and extends the scope of your yachting activities. It will also be useful if you go ashore by mistake.

Principles and Techniques

Although there are several different types of anchor, you will find that the type most often used at AY Yachting Centers is the CQR or plough anchor. The differences in design cater for different seabed's or stowage requirements, but the CQR represents a good compromise.

A length of chain attached to the anchor serves two purposes. Its weight ensures that the pull from the anchor warp is as nearly horizontal as possible, so helping the anchor to dig into the seabed. In addition, it protects the warp from chafe on the seabed.

Attached to the chain is the anchor warp, which must be strong enough to hold the weight of the yacht being anchored and long enough to suit the depths of your sailing area. In order to get an efficient pull on the anchor, the 'rule of thumb' when using warp is to pay out a length that is five times the depth of water.

The bitter end of the warp should be attached to the boat at a suitable strong point, the favorite one being the heel of the mast. Because the anchor may be needed quickly it must be stowed for instant use in such a way that it can be run out freely. The usual options are to coil it in a bucket or a drum or to make up a coil which is secured with a buntline hitch in the anchor well or locker.

Although the bitter end of the anchor warp is firmly secured, you may want to ensure that the warp runs out over the bow of the yacht when lying at anchor. If your yacht does not have a bow fairlead, you can improvise with a loop of line tied to the stem head fitting.

Selecting an Anchorage

When choosing a spot to anchor, consider the following:
1. Are there any underwater obstructions?
2. Will your anchor hold in the seabed?
3. What is the depth of water?
4. How close are other water users, main channels etc? Will you swing into them?
5. What is the expected tidal range?

Methods of Anchoring

Just as when approaching a mooring, you must take wind and tide into account. Yachts tend to be more wind-rode than tide-rode, except in strong tides and light winds.

When wind and tides are in similar directions:

1. Approach the chosen site on a close reach.
2. Prepare the anchor and warp, leading the latter forward through the bow fairlead.
3. Slow down by easing sheets to stop upwind / uptide of where you want to lie.
4. When the boat has stopped, let the anchor go as the boat starts to drift backwards, then pay out chain and warp smoothly.
5. When enough warp has been run out, secure the warp and check that the anchor is holding by reference to stationary objects (i.e. take a transit) and lower the sails.

When wind and tide are opposed

Expect the yacht to be tide-rode:

1. Choose your site and sail upwind from it.
2. Prepare anchor and warp.
3. Sail head to wind and lower your mainsail.
4. Sail downwind under jib alone.
5. Ease the jib to slow down as you approach the chosen spot.
6. Let the jib fly and lower the anchor.
7. Pay out warp, then secure and check anchor is holding.
8. Lower jib.

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Clearing a Fouled Anchor

The most common reason for fouling an anchor is if you have anchored in an area where mooring chains and other obstacles are lying on the seabed. Alternatively, the anchor may be fouled on a rock and a conventional straight pull will not shift it. The way to clear it is to pull on the anchor from a different angle. If you cannot clear it by sailing around and pulling on the warp so that the pull comes on the anchor from a different direction, try dropping another line down to the anchor itself.

Do this by tying a loop of line around your anchor warp, weight it with something suitable and allow it to drop down the warp. Then take the strain on this line rather than on the anchor warp and try sailing around the anchor and pulling on this line.

The last alternative is to send a diver down to investigate the problem and respond to his suggestions. Completely stubborn anchors may need to be buoyed off for the yacht to depart so that hopefully upon your return with divers and retrieval equipment your fouled anchor can be easily located.


Grounding and Recovery

Until you become familiar with a particular stretch of water there is always a chance that you will run aground. Often the situation when racing and Hugging the Coast or trying to sail in shallow water where less current may have a tactical advantage. Knowing you are Aground (When the draft of the vessel exceeds the depth of water) is important as not all groundings are associated with a bang or thuds.

In silted muddy estuaries the first indication of trouble is a gradual slowing down of boat speed accompanied by a loss of steering as the yacht seems to be sailing normally. For centerboard yachts your natural reaction to raise the board will save you if you are on a weather shore. It could be your undoing if you are on a lee shore, because you will simply blow further on to it.

As a general rule, prompt decisive action will get you off while indecision generally results in defeat, structural damage and puts the crew and yacht at risk to stranding over a tidal period and possibly even total defeat.- when the only way you will get afloat again is with a tow from a rescue boat.

The Yachtmaster's initial reaction whilst recovering their composure is to check on the crew and instigate Prompt Action by quickly deciding on a favored direction to steer the vessel towards deeper water. If motoring try reversing away first if sailing trim the sails and move the crews weight to the leeward side inducing the yachts heeling effects and wait to see how the vessel responds. On large yachts if further heeling is required ensuring the topping lift is securely attached crew members can climb onto the main boom and sit inline from the overboard end. Power assistance may be required from the yachts engine through out these maneuvers and after exhausting these alternatives the serious Yachtmaster may resort to towing assistance or get settled for a Tidal Period aground.

For small manageable yachts it may only be a matter of the crew jumping overboard into shallow water and pushing the bow round towards deep water, jump aboard inclining the yacht or raising the centerboard and sail away. Your AY Instructor will give you practical advice in how to react and organize the crew in this important drill.

For yachts semi floating try Kedging Off by throwing a anchor and warp as far as possible forward or in a required direction, then try hauling the boat to it and repeat the process until you are in deep enough water to sail off. If the water shelves gently and is muddy it is often best to abandon any hopes of sailing off, then lower the sails and row the anchor out into deeper water and repeat the kedging and heeling process, then hopefully hoist the sails and sail away.


Inland Sailing - Basic Advice

The important thing to remember about Inland yachting is that virtually every stretch of water belongs to someone, and you may have to have to seek permission or Permits before getting afloat. Local Bylaws may govern the use of the water, so look out for notices and seek local advice at launching sites.

Some sailors never tire of the challenge of a particular stretch of inland water, with its vagaries of wind. If you travel from place to place there are a few hazards to remember. Look out for Overhead Power Lines, particularly when launching your boat, and if you are sailing on a river pay attention to the signs warning of Locks and Weirs.

The Collision Regulations apply on inland waters, as well as at sea, but although you will normally have right of way over powered craft, make your intentions clear in plenty of time. Remember that hired boats may be in the hands of novices.

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